Return to Finca Mirador

This time it was Arlow that would join me on the now annual trek up the mountains to Finca Mirador, a beautiful coffee farm we have built a special relationship with. This finca is owned by our dear friend, Fabian Hernandez.

One of the few benefits of the increase in coffee prices this year, is that we are now close to parity with direct purchasing - and working out our own logistics. Which means that the coffee beans drying in his beds right now, could very well be the same coffees we roast for Tennessee and Kentucky mornings.

The narrow, rocky trail began at the finca of Don Hector - the same septuagenerian we met last year. While he seems more frail this year, he bounces as he walks, showing us his latest projects - a cable car that transports his bananas and coffee from the mountains, his trout (or, trucha) farming operation, and his new cabins he’s constructing. Don Hector, like many others, are planning on ecotourists to bring vitality to this sleepy region of Colombia.

As we passed his sprawling mountain finca, the rocks gave way to mud. The mud - from the recent heavy rains - was challenging.

The jungle closed in around us, with the leaves growing larger, and the trail growing narrower. With a gentle tug, Fabian paused to show us the giant leaves they use as shelter when working these mountain areas - when rains come, the men seek shelter under these leaves.

The giant leaves Fabian and others use for shelter when caught out in the rain.

We crossed a crystalline stream for a slight detour as Fabian wanted to show us his two vacas - dairy cows - that provide him and his growing family with milk. These cows were free ranging, basking in the Andean sun and enjoying the freshest of mountain foods. Surprisingly there were no armed federal agents swarming to ensure safe milk…and yet his family is incredibly healthy.

Suddenly two familiar voices echoed from the forest, as Fabian’s two little kids sauntered over. They, too are free ranging - with this incredible mountain landscape as their playground. They run up and down these mountain trails, and play in the streams all day (when not in school of course). I am always impressed by their politeness, respect for elders, and their ability to self-manage.

We finally reached the lower reaches of Fabian’s coffee plants, mostly Caturra and Castillo varieties. The cherries were already showing signs of progress, with some beautiful rojos showing on the branches. His big harvest begins in April.

Fabian’s plants are showing promising colors.

The finca itself soon came into view, the classic warn wood walls. The smell of smoke indicated that Fabian’s wife was cooking something delicious in the family cocina. Arlow and the kids enjoyed some rice and beans, then ran off to chase chickens and explore. Andres, Fabian’s brother and I shared some laughs and handshakes.

The kids visiting

The conversation naturally pivoted to coffee - with Fabian proudly showing me the coffee that was drying in his beds. The smell of drying coffee in the humid beds is almost intoxicating. He tumbled the coffee with his hands, as part of an almost never ending battle between humidity and dry - seco - coffee.

Fabian inspecting his drying coffee.

As is remarkably common and predictable in this part of the World, a wall of rain made its way up the valley and inundated us with cool mountain rains. We sought shelter not under giant leaves, but under the eaves of Fabian’s house. The kids? They danced in the rain.

As the power flickered on and off, the rain intensified. The same fire we smelled on the way up the mountain now became a source for warmth. We huddled in the kitchen, taking up precious space but enjoying the crackle of the cooking fire Fabian’s wife had built up. There was just something about this moment - the pouring cold rain, the laughter of kids that don’t understand each other, the muffled cackling of chickens, and the crackling fire, with smoke we don’t recognize. This is the magic of Colombia. It is not in the things of this place, but the moments.

The rain slowed, and eventually we could once again see the mountains across the valley, but only through holes in the clouds. Fabian and Andres showed me the progress they have been making on their new mill and processing equipment - partially funded by the Colombian government. Programs like these are a smart use of funds, allowing rural coffee producers to expand and grow efficiently. Fabian explained his goals of getting more involved in fermentation, and also building a cable system like Don Hector, to ferry is coffee down the mountain in a faster way.

We looked through holes in the clouds to the other side of the valley.

This visit to Finca Mirador felt different. Gone was that initial shock with the beauty of the place, and now in its place, a familiar sense of friendship. Our kids were playing in the rain together. I looked at his coffee as a possible bridge to our shops in the East. This was no longer a vanity expedition for “content” but more of a regular check-in to see the progress a friend was making to improve his farm and his family.

I’ll make that trade any day.

And I can’t wait to go back.